On the agenda today was some design work first up at the studio and then head down mid day to start venting all of Patrick’s tubes, drill the water bottle boss holes on the down tube and run the internal cable routing for the rear brake. This is a dedicated singlespeed so no need to run a rear derailleur cable routing. Which oddly enough, had me “feeling” like I was forgetting something all day long. Odd. But indeed no matter how much I rechecked everything, I had everything covered. Force of habit up to this point I suppose. I’ve started to not weld the bottom bracket assembly fully until the entire front triangle is mitered and fitted. Allows me to get all the vent holes in just the right spots on the bottom bracket and I can check clearances as I go so if anything needs adjustment, it’s a lot easier to deal with single tubes rather than assemblies. Once all checks out, I deburred, cleaned and degreased all the tubes. Then it was time to start welding (my favorite part too): I start above with the bottom bracket assembly, that goes into the jig, and then I tack the seat tube in place at the points of the compass (North / South first, then East / West). Now, since the down tube covers a good portion of the seat tube from view, I fully wrap from West (non-driveside) to East (driveside). See how I moved opposite from how I tacked? Here I am wrapping that seat tube weld – you’ll also see that the jig has been raised and rotated – something very convenient about my jig’s stand (thanks Pro-Cut!) : Next I rotate the jig upside down, and tack the down tube where it meets the bottom of the bottom bracket – the heat pulls the down tube into the head tube. Then I flip the whole jig and tack at the top of the down tube/head tube junction BUT fully wrap this weld as it’s a tough one to get at when the top tube is in place. The underside of the top tube is equally difficult but it’s good to minimize the difficulty: And of course you’ll notice the use of a toe strap. That’s a framebuilders 3rd hand for those not in the know. Then it was onto the top tube (head tube junction at the top first, then top of the top tube at the seat tube and then flip the jig, do the same for the underside): Here’s Patrick’s 29er all tacked up. The seat tube is left long as it makes it a bit easier to access the sides of the tube in the jig without having the cone assembly in the way. So by leaving it a bit long, I can not only take my initial angle reading easily for seat tube angle off the face of the radius seat tube (i found that is the most accurate way to get it right) but there’s extra room for the torch and my hand when tacking/welding in the jig: A good day actually. I got a lot done and Monday is shaping up to be a weldfest! One of my favorite festivals. A note to the discerning cyclist who is thinking of ordering a custom 44: Each and every custom frame is bathed in a bath of loud and raw music. The tubes are tempered with sonic waves of punk rock. It’s soul is christened with early 80’s and 90’s hardcore. It’s mojo is enlightened by the sounds of delta blues. And it’s shred ready with touches of rockabilly and early country (Johnny Cash that is – that’s the only country I listen to – none of that modern “Garth” BS). You can rest assured that each and every frame has heard it all and is ready to see it all. Made to Shred. That’s guaranteed. Literally.